COMPLIANCE DEEP DIVE

‘Made in’ and the DPP: Country-of-Origin Rules for Clothing and Footwear Under EU Customs and Consumer Law, and What the Passport May Add

Published 20.10.2026 · Reading time ~14 min · by Lior Gabriel Graetz · LG Fashion Labs

Where a garment comes from has four different legal answers. Customs decides origin with product-specific rules; a ‘Made in’ label is a voluntary claim judged by consumer law; the digital product passport may carry origin information, but no act says so yet; and France already requires the places of manufacture next to the price online.

Customs origin and a ‘Made in’ claim are different things: under EU law, neither authorises nor forbids the other. Below are the customs rules for clothing and footwear word for word, the test for claims, what the passport may add and the French rule.

Art. 60(2)

Union Customs Code: goods made in more than one country originate where their last substantial, economically justified processing took place (Article 169(2) of the new Code from 21 September 2027).

Making-up

Annex 22-01 primary rule (complete making-up) for knitted garments assembled from pieces (chapter 61) and for finished garments of chapter 62, except headings 6213 and 6214.

None

General EU duty to mark the country of origin on clothing or footwear (Textile Labelling Regulation, Directive 94/11/EC and GPSR checked on 20 October 2026).

Q3–Q4 2027

Indicative adoption of the ESPR delegated act for textiles, which will decide whether the passport carries origin information (Commission DPP timeline).

1. The short answer

QuestionAnswer todayLegal basis and status
Where does a garment come from for customs?From the country of its last substantial processing, applied through list rules per heading: for most garments, complete making-up; for footwear, a change of headingUnion Customs Code, Article 60(2); Delegated Regulation (EU) 2015/2446, Article 32 and Annex 22-01 (law)
Must clothing or footwear carry a ‘Made in’ label?No general EU duty. A voluntary claim must not mislead the average consumer about geographical originUnfair Commercial Practices Directive, Article 6(1)(b) (law)
Will the passport show origin?Not decided. ESPR Annex III contains no origin item; the Commission names origin information only as content the textile passport may includeESPR Annex III (law); Commission textile-apparel page (indicative)
What does France require?For textile, household-linen and footwear products in the French EPR scope sold online: the places of manufacture, close to the price and in characters of the same sizeCode de l'environnement, Article L. 541-9-1-2, in force since 10 July 2026 (national law)

Customs origin serves tariffs and other trade measures; it does not by itself authorise a ‘Made in’ claim, and EU customs law does not forbid one. The claim is judged under consumer law by whether it misleads, and national rules can add duties (section 5).

We do not give product-specific origin advice. The origin of a given style depends on its tariff heading and on where each production step took place; on application, customs authorities take "decisions relating to binding origin information (BOI decisions)" (Article 33(1) of the Union Customs Code), which are binding on the authorities and the holder (Article 33(2)); the new Code keeps them (Article 15(1) of Regulation (EU) 2026/2108).

2. Customs origin: the rules for clothing and footwear

Customs work with non-preferential origin for the Common Customs Tariff, for non-tariff trade measures and for "other Union measures relating to the origin of goods" (Union Customs Code, Article 59). Preferential origin, which decides whether a reduced duty under a trade agreement or a unilateral EU preference scheme applies, follows the rules laid down in each agreement or adopted for each unilateral scheme (Article 64(2), (3) and (5)) and is not covered here.

The core rule today is Article 60(2) of Regulation (EU) No 952/2013: "Goods the production of which involves more than one country or territory shall be deemed to originate in the country or territory where they underwent their last, substantial, economically-justified processing or working, in an undertaking equipped for that purpose, resulting in the manufacture of a new product or representing an important stage of manufacture". From 21 September 2027, Article 169(2) of the new Union Customs Code, Regulation (EU) 2026/2108, contains the same rule; its English text writes "last, substantial, economically justified processing or working" without the hyphen. The new Regulation entered into force on 20 September 2026 and applies from 21 September 2027 (Article 287(1) and (2)). Delegated acts adopted under the old Code continue to apply until the Commission repeals them under the new one (Article 284(1)).

The detailed rules for garments sit in Delegated Regulation (EU) 2015/2446. Under its Article 32, "Goods listed in Annex 22-01 shall be considered to have undergone their last substantial processing or working, resulting in the manufacture of a new product or representing an important stage of manufacture, in the country or territory in which the rules set out in that Annex are fulfilled or which is identified by those rules". Annex 22-01 sets those rules per HS 2022 heading, including chapters 61 and 62 for apparel, chapter 64 for footwear and, in chapter 42, leather apparel (ex 4203). The key term for garments is defined in introductory note 1.4: "The term ‘complete making-up’ used in the list means that all the operations following cutting of the fabric or knitting or crocheting of the fabric directly to shape have to be performed. However, making-up shall not necessarily be considered as incomplete where one or more finishing operations have not been carried out".

Product groupHeading(s)Rule (Annex 22-01, verbatim)What it means in practice
Knitted or crocheted apparel and clothing accessories (chapter 61)6101 to 6117, split ex (a)"obtained by sewing together or otherwise assembling, two or more pieces of knitted or crocheted fabric which have been either cut to form or obtained directly to form": "Complete making-up"Origin where all operations after cutting, or after knitting or crocheting the fabric directly to shape, were performed
Knitted or crocheted apparel and clothing accessories (chapter 61)6101 to 6117, split ex (b)Other: "Manufacture from yarn"Origin where the article was manufactured starting from yarn
Apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted (chapter 62)6201 to 6212 and 6215 to 6217"finished or complete": "Complete making-up"; "unfinished or incomplete": "Manufacture from yarn"A finished garment takes its origin from the complete making-up; an unfinished one only from manufacture from yarn
Handkerchiefs, shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas, veils and the like (chapter 62)6213 and 6214Embroidered: "Manufacture from yarn" or "Manufacture from unembroidered fabric, provided the value of the unembroidered fabric used does not exceed 40 % of the ex-works price of the product"; other: "Manufacture from yarn"Making up from imported fabric is not enough; for embroidered items, manufacture from unembroidered fabric is enough within the 40 % value limit
Leather apparel (chapter 42)ex 4203"Articles of apparel of leather or of composition leather": "Complete making-up"Same test as for finished garments
Footwear (chapter 64)6401 to 6405"CTH with the exclusion of assembly of uppers affixed to inner or to other sole components of heading 6406"A change of heading confers origin, except where the shoe is made from uppers already affixed to inner or other sole components of heading 6406
Fallback (chapters 42, 61, 62 and 64)Chapter residual rule"Where the country of origin cannot be determined by application of the primary rules, the country of origin of the goods shall be the country in which the major portion of the materials originated, as determined on the basis of the value of the materials"Applies only where the primary rule gives no answer

The Annex glossary defines CTH as "change to the heading in question from any other heading". Under introductory note 2.5, non-originating materials that do not satisfy such a tariff-shift rule are disregarded if their total value does not exceed 10 % of the ex-works price of the good, unless a chapter provides otherwise.

Some operations never confer origin. Article 34 of the Delegated Regulation lists what "shall not be considered as substantial, economically justified processing or working for the purposes of conferring origin", among them "changes of packing and the breaking-up and assembly of consignments" (point (c)), "putting up of goods in sets or ensembles or putting up for sale" (point (d)) and "affixing of marks, labels or other similar distinguishing signs on products or their packaging" (point (e)). It adds: "For goods covered by Annex 22-01, the Chapter residual rules for those goods shall apply".

In short: for most garments, the decisive step is the complete making-up (in chapter 61 where the garment is assembled from pieces, in chapter 62 where it is finished or complete); sewing in a label or repacking elsewhere does not confer origin. Our guide The New EU Customs Code and the Digital Product Passport covers the wider changes for importers.

3. ‘Made in’ claims: no EU marking duty, but no misleading

EU law contains no general duty to mark the country of origin on clothing or footwear. The Textile Labelling Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 lays down rules on "the use of textile fibre names and related labelling and marking of fibre composition of textile products", on non-textile parts of animal origin and on fibre analysis (Article 1). Its review clause asked the Commission's report to examine "an origin labelling scheme aimed at providing consumers with accurate information on the country of origin and additional information ensuring full traceability of textile products" (Article 24(3)(a)); the Regulation, last consolidated on 15 February 2018, contains no such scheme.

For footwear, Directive 94/11/EC applies "to the labelling of the materials used in the main components of footwear for sale to the consumer" (Article 1(1)): the upper, the lining and sock, and the outersole (Article 1(2)). The General Product Safety Regulation (EU) 2023/988 requires a type, batch or serial number and the manufacturer's name and postal and electronic address (Article 9(5) and (6)), not a country of origin.

A change is planned, not proposed. In its 2023 call for evidence on the revision of the textile labelling rules, the Commission wrote: "Additional labelling domains will also be explored, such as origin (‘made in’)"; footwear was excluded from that review. The initiative's Have your say page still shows Commission adoption planned for the second quarter of 2026; no proposal had been published by 20 October 2026. Our guide The EU Textile Labelling Regulation and the DPP covers the revision.

A voluntary ‘Made in’ claim is a commercial practice under the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive 2005/29/EC. Under Article 6(1), a practice is misleading if it "contains false information and is therefore untruthful or in any way, including overall presentation, deceives or is likely to deceive the average consumer, even if the information is factually correct", in relation to one of the listed elements, and causes or is likely to cause a transactional decision the consumer would not have taken otherwise. Point (b) lists the product's "geographical or commercial origin".

That origin element has been in point (b) since the original 2005 text. Directive (EU) 2024/825 replaced point (b) to add environmental or social characteristics and circularity aspects (its Article 1(2)(a)); Member States apply the amendments from 27 September 2026 (its Article 4(1)), the date of the current consolidated text. The origin wording did not change.

Under the Directive, the test is the effect on the average consumer, including the overall presentation, not the customs rule. The Textile Labelling Regulation's recital 20 states the same aim: "When such indications are used, they should enable consumers to be fully aware of the origin of the products they purchase, so as to protect them against fraudulent, inaccurate or misleading claims of origin". Keeping claims consistent with documented production data is the practical safeguard (section 6).

4. The DPP: origin is possible, not confirmed

ESPR Annex III sets out the elements from which the delegated acts choose the passport data: they "shall specify what data are to or can be included in the digital product passport from among the following elements". Origin, country of origin or place of manufacture is not among the items (a) to (l). The nearest are (a) "information required under Article 7(2), point (b), and Article 7(5) or by other Union law applicable to the relevant product group", (d) "relevant commodity codes, such as a TARIC code as defined in Regulation (EEC) No 2658/87" and (i) "unique facility identifiers", which identify locations or buildings in a product's value chain (Article 2(33)); a site identifier is not a statement of origin.

The Commission's textile-apparel page (last modified 7 August 2026, English only) says: "Depending on the final requirements of the delegated act, information may include, beyond sustainability-related product information, documentation relevant for compliance and traceability, as well as ancillary information such as", and its list includes "Origin information". It adds: "The exact information requirements will be defined through the relevant delegated acts and supporting technical specifications". This is an indicative description, not a legal requirement.

The textile delegated act has not been adopted. The Commission's indicative DPP timeline (page updated on 15 October 2026) places adoption of the ESPR delegated acts for textiles in Q3–Q4 2027 and notes: "Following the adoption of ESPR delegated acts, economic operators will have a transition period of at least 18 months".

One Commission proposal would put origin into the passport in a narrow case. Article 28(4) of the proposed Public Procurement Act, COM(2026) 590 of 9 September 2026 (procedure 2026/0265(COD)), reads: "If required for applying requirements under Article 73(2), economic operators shall indicate the country of origin of the goods that compose their tender, incorporating it, where applicable, into the digital product passport of the goods pursuant to Regulation (EU) 2024/1781". Article 73(2) would allow public buyers, among other measures, to "require that the goods, services and works offered originate in the Union or be covered goods, services or works", the European preference. Origin would follow the customs rules: "The origin of goods shall be determined in accordance with Title II, Chapter 2, Section 1 of Regulation (EU) No 952/2013" (Article 74(2)), the non-preferential rules in section 2.

The passport entry is thus limited to European-preference cases. The proposal amends ESPR only by deleting Article 65 and Article 74(3)(b) (Article 147(1)); it does not add origin to Annex III. It would apply two years after its entry into force (Article 149). It exists in English only and is in the preparatory phase in Parliament; the Have your say feedback period is open (end date shown on 20 October 2026: 15 December 2026) and "is being extended every day until this adopted proposal is available in all EU languages".

5. France: places of manufacture next to the online price

France has gone further than EU law. Article 2 of Loi n° 2026-602 of 8 July 2026, published in the Journal officiel of 9 July 2026, inserted Article L. 541-9-1-2 into the Code de l'environnement. In the only official language, French, it reads: "Les lieux de fabrication du produit mentionné au 11° de l'article L. 541-10-1 vendu en ligne doivent être portés à la connaissance du consommateur de manière claire et lisible sur la plateforme numérique, en caractères d'une taille égale à celle de l'indication du prix et à proximité de celui-ci". In English (our translation): the places of manufacture of the product referred to in point 11° of Article L. 541-10-1 that is sold online must be brought to the consumer's attention clearly and legibly on the digital platform, in characters of the same size as the price and close to it.

Point 11° of Article L. 541-10-1 is the French extended-producer-responsibility category that the EU notification describes as the textiles, household linen and footwear sector (TLC). The official consolidated code shows the article in force since 10 July 2026; the law sets later dates only for other articles. Unlike Article L. 541-9-1-1 on ultra-fast fashion, inserted by the same law, Article L. 541-9-1-2 contains no exception for persons established in another EU or EEA State. It also does not say who must display the information; it requires the display on the digital platform.

The law says lieux de fabrication, places of manufacture, in the plural, and does not define the term or refer to the customs rules. During the EU notification procedure (TRIS 2025/0336/FR), the Commission described the draft provision as one that "requires information on the manufacturing origin of any garment or textile sold online", and the French authorities clarified that "forthcoming rules or administrative provisions will require the identification of origin regarding Member States, if the product originates from the EU, determined by Articles 59 to 63 of the Union Customs Code, Articles 31 onwards and Annex 22-01 of Delegated Regulation (EU) 2015/2446 and Articles 57 to 59 of Implementing Regulation (EU) 2015/2447". We found no later notification of such rules in TRIS (search of 20 October 2026).

The Commission has not assessed the origin rules France announced, but it objected to the display duty itself under EU platform law. On the origin provision, the comments part of its letter C(2025) 6710 final of 29 September 2025, which also delivered a detailed opinion, states that the Commission "is not able to verify whether and how the French authorities intend to ensure compliance with EU law and therefore reserves its opinion" until those rules are notified. In the detailed opinion itself, the Commission listed the provision among those that "further supplement the obligations on intermediary service providers, in particular online platforms, contrary to the full harmonisation effect of the DSA". Sweden also issued a detailed opinion. In its reaction of 15 April 2026 the Commission maintained its Digital Services Act concerns, which cover "the information to be displayed on their online interfaces", and kept to its assessment that the notified draft, "in its current form, is incompatible with Union law". It acknowledged receipt of the adopted text on 30 July 2026; TRIS shows no later Commission message (checked 20 October 2026).

6. What to do now

StepWhy
Record, per style, where each production step takes place: spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing and finishing, cutting, making-up or assemblyThe Annex 22-01 rule for the heading decides which step counts; it cannot be applied without this data.
Determine the non-preferential origin per heading with your customs adviser or broker; consider BOI decisions for key linesOrigin depends on the heading and the actual process. BOI decisions bind the authorities and the holder (Union Customs Code, Article 33).
Keep any ‘Made in’ claim on labels, product pages and marketing consistent with that evidenceA practice that deceives the average consumer about geographical origin is misleading, even where the information is factually correct (UCPD, Article 6(1)(b)).
If you sell online in France, check that the places of manufacture appear next to the price, in the same character sizeCode de l'environnement, Article L. 541-9-1-2, in force since 10 July 2026.
Reuse the same supplier and site mapping for the passport and for forced-labour due diligenceOne source of production data serves origin evidence, possible passport content and the work described in our guide The EU Forced Labour Regulation.
Watch the textile delegated act and COM(2026) 590The act will decide whether the passport carries origin information (indicative adoption Q3–Q4 2027); the proposal would link origin and the passport in public procurement.

DPP AUDIT

Map where each production step happens before the passport asks.

We map your supply chain per production step, so origin, forced-labour and DPP data come from one source. Under NDA.

Start Your DPP Audit

7. Dates to watch

DateWhatSource
9 July 2026Loi n° 2026-602 of 8 July 2026 publishedJournal officiel n°0159
10 July 2026Article L. 541-9-1-2 of the Code de l'environnement in force (places of manufacture online)Official consolidated code (Légifrance data)
20 September 2026New Union Customs Code, Regulation (EU) 2026/2108, enters into forceRegulation (EU) 2026/2108, Article 287(1)
27 September 2026Amendments to the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive by Directive (EU) 2024/825 apply; the origin element in Article 6(1)(b) is unchangedDirective (EU) 2024/825, Article 4(1)
15 December 2026 at the earliestEnd of the Have your say feedback period on COM(2026) 590 as shown on 20 October 2026; the eight-week period is extended every day until the proposal is available in all EU languagesHave your say, initiative 15492
21 September 2027Article 169 of the new Code applies in place of Article 60 of Regulation (EU) No 952/2013Regulation (EU) 2026/2108, Article 287(2)
Q3–Q4 2027 (indicative)Adoption of the ESPR delegated act for textiles, which will decide whether the passport carries origin informationCommission DPP timeline

Frequently asked questions

Can we write ‘Made in Italy’ if only the finishing is done in Italy? +
We cannot answer that for a specific product, but the general rules are these. For customs, most garments of chapters 61 and 62 take their origin from the complete making-up, meaning all operations after cutting; making-up is not necessarily incomplete where finishing operations have not been carried out (Annex 22-01, note 1.4). Affixing labels and simple packaging operations do not confer origin (Delegated Regulation (EU) 2015/2446, Article 34). Separately, the claim must not deceive the average consumer about geographical origin (Unfair Commercial Practices Directive, Article 6(1)(b)). Check the case with your advisers; a binding origin information decision gives a binding customs answer.
Is there an EU duty to put the country of origin on clothing labels? +
No general one. The Textile Labelling Regulation covers fibre names and composition, Directive 94/11/EC the materials of the main components of footwear, and the General Product Safety Regulation product identification and manufacturer details; none requires a country of origin. In its 2023 call for evidence, the Commission said it would explore origin labelling in the revision of the textile labelling rules; no proposal had been published by 20 October 2026. A voluntary origin claim must not mislead, and national rules can add duties, as France has done for online sales.
Will the DPP show where my clothes were made? +
Possibly, but it has not been decided. ESPR Annex III contains no origin item. The Commission's textile-apparel page lists origin information among content the passport may include, depending on the delegated act, which the Commission's indicative timeline places in Q3–Q4 2027. The proposed Public Procurement Act, COM(2026) 590, would have tenderers enter the origin of goods in the passport where applicable, but only for European-preference requirements in public procurement, and it is still a proposal.
Does the new Customs Code change origin rules? +
Not the core rule. From 21 September 2027, Article 169(2) of Regulation (EU) 2026/2108 takes over the wording of Article 60(2) of Regulation (EU) No 952/2013, and Delegated Regulation (EU) 2015/2446, including Annex 22-01, continues to apply until the Commission repeals it under the new Code. The new Code empowers the Commission to adopt delegated acts on these origin rules (Article 169(3)).
What does France require online? +
Since 10 July 2026, Article L. 541-9-1-2 of the French Code de l'environnement requires the places of manufacture of products in the French textile, household-linen and footwear EPR scope sold online to be shown clearly and legibly on the digital platform, close to the price and in characters of the same size. The term is not defined. The Commission objected to the display duty under the Digital Services Act and reserved its opinion on the origin rules France said would follow; we found no notification of such rules by 20 October 2026.

Sources

The legal acts were read in their Official Journal versions and, where stated, in their consolidated versions published by the Publications Office of the European Union (EUR-Lex); consolidations are documentation tools without legal effect. The Publications Office records were searched for later consolidations, amendments and corrigenda on 20.10.2026. The Commission's textile-apparel and DPP pages and COM(2026) 590 exist in English only; the textile labelling call for evidence on Have your say exists in 24 languages. The French law is official only in French; it was read in the official Journal officiel and consolidated-code data published by the French legal information service (DILA). All sources were accessed on 20.10.2026. This is general information, not legal, financial or investment advice.